Exploring L.A.’s Metro Art Scene at Union Station
I’ve read about and seen pictures of the fabulous art in metro stations around the world in cities like Stockholm, Naples, and Moscow. But considering that I rarely take public transportation here in L.A. – we Angelenos love our cars – I had no idea that there are such great artistic offerings on display in various metro stations around my own city until I recently took a tour of the Los Angeles Union Station and the Metro Gateway Headquarters Building downtown.
In celebration of Union Station’s 75th anniversary, special tours of the station are being offered on various dates throughout the year. Considering that I’d never even been to Union Station before (gasp!), I decided that I was long overdue for a tour. Led by a Metro art docent, the tour offered our group with access to various parts of Union Station that aren’t typically open to the public. During the tour, I also got to see some art on display in Metro’s corporate headquarters which is adjacent to Union Station.
Here are some highlights from the tour…
I met up with the docent and the tour group at the information booth near the Alameda Street entrance at 10am. Considering that I was half an hour early, I had a bit of time to snap a few pre-tour pictures of Union Station.
Back in the early days, three individual railway companies – Union Pacific, Southern Pacific, and Atchison, Topeka, & Santa Fe Railway – decided to consolidate their services in one facility. In the 1920s, city officials approved construction and the costs were shared amongst the three companies. The station was partially designed by John Parkinson and Donald B. Parkinson, and it officially opened in 1939.
We were led into the station’s now defunct Harvey House restaurant which was owned by Fred Harvey. Harvey owned a chain of hospitality businesses including hotels and restaurants that ran along railroads in the western United States.
Harvey’s restaurants were high end, and the uniformed waitstaff and kitchen crew had to adhere to high standards of service.
Today, Traxx is Union Station’s fine dining restaurant of choice that’s been serving train travelers and locals alike since 1997.
Just outside of the Harvey Room, we were taken to the courtyard where the docent pointed out Chinatown’s original boundary line and informed us that Union Station was built in L.A.’s original Chinatown.
Prior to construction, this incited a lot of controversy led in part by the Los Angeles Times who argued that the station would forever obliterate Chinatown and its surroundings.
The station’s passageway leading to various departure ramps features light boxes highlighting works by various artists and photographers.
Next, the art docent pointed out some beautiful mosaics depicting the city’s spectacular sunrises and sunsets.
The docent also pointed out a light installation exhibit featuring flashing vertical lights that flash from left to right. If you look closely, in between the flashes, you can see images of passing trains and celebrities’ faces. Needless to say, I wasn’t quick enough to capture any of these elusive images.
During the tour, I discovered that Union Station also features an aquarium. After walking through the main passageway away from the Alameda Street entrance, I started seeing imprinted designs in the flooring which meant that the aquarium was close by.
This piece of art called the “River Bench” in the station’s east lobby was designed by May Sun and was designed for the “City of Dreams, River of History” project. The sculptured cone rising from the floor resembles a mountain and is partially made from rocks from the L.A. River. Inlaid into the sculpture are bottles, Chinese crockery, dentures, and other artifacts discovered during excavations around the station that reflect the original Chinatown that was displaced when Union Station was constructed.
Normally, water flows from this mountainous sculpture, but given California’s water shortage problem, the water has been turned off.
As we headed up the escalator en route to the Metro’s office building, I couldn’t help but notice the gorgeous glass ceiling and the mural nearby.
The mural was designed by L.A. artist, Richard Wyatt, who’s probably best known for “Hollywood Jazz: 1945 – 1972,” a mural that can be found at the Capitol Records building.
But his mural at Union Station depicts diverse people from various time periods and economic backgrounds in an effort to reflect all the people who pass through Union Station. In the mural, Wyatt included an image of his grandmother wearing a blue dress and hat.
Once inside the lobby of the MTA building, there was a model metro train on display and more wall murals to admire.
The first murals that the docent pointed out reflect the changing landscapes of the site of Union Station over the years.
It’s easy to see the progression in the landscape from 1870 to 1910 and to 1960.
Viewing L.A.’s skyline from the Metro building’s terrace, it’s hard to believe that L.A. used to be so barren.
Overall, the Metro art tour is a great and FREE way to explore L.A.’s alternative art scene for locals and tourists alike.
For details about the Union Station 75th anniversary tour and other Metro art tours, click here.